Дата публикации: 2018-05-27 13:30
The poster asks whether getting both the 75 and 76 will be worth, since they 8767 re very similar focal lengths. However, he (she) also says that he have already bought the 75 instead of the 76 because he was afraid this last lens would be too wide
A second 67mm Nikon lens cap was ordered to replace the more fiddly Fujifilm cap on the XF 56mm F/. Sadly, a genuine Nikon cap isn’t an option for the tiny, and even more fiddly 89mm cap for the XF 65mm F/ Macro (the fake Nikon caps don’t compare). The tiny cap is next to impossible to remove with gloves. I’ve thought about buying a clear filter and just leaving it on, but then I’m bringing a piece of glass right out to the front of the lens, which is just begging for flare. I often like real flare from the lens, but I don’t want to add it with a filter.
Gizmag looks at smartphone lens aperture, and why it s important (Credit: Simon Crisp/Gizmag)
An in-depth comparison of Fuji’s FUJINON XF 56mm f/ R and their FUJINON XF 65mm f/ R Macro, including handling, sharpness, bokeh, aberrations, etc.
Where you buy your gear matters. You expect to get what you ordered and you want to pay a low price for it. The retailers I recommend below are the ones I trust for my own purchases. Get your Irix 65mm f/ Blackstone Lens now from:
Here’s where your money starts buying you more. Without doubt, the FUJINON XF 56mm f/ focuses faster on the X-E6, X-E7, and X-T6. It’s perfectly usable, to great, to excellent respectively. The 65mm f/ on the X-T6 focuses at about the same speed as the 56mm f/ on an X-E7. On the X-E6 the 65 starts to really slow down, and it can sometimes miss focus, then drag itself kicking and screaming through it’s entire focal range before proudly displaying a red “can’t focus” box. Honestly, if you’re shooting in lowlight, the 65mm f/ on an X-E6 will frustrate you. Then again, if you’re shooting in lowlight often, you owe it to yourself to have a look at the X-E7, at least.
Many photographers struggle with some of the most basic and fundamental concepts of exposure in photography, getting frustrated with not being able to take good pictures. Unfortunately, some get stuck in automated modes, preferring to let their cameras decide everything for them. In order to help our readers explore the full potential of their camera gear, we will start by exploring one of the pillars of photography aperture (the other two being ISO and Shutter Speed ). Without a doubt, Aperture is the most important of the three, simply because it affects so many different variables of an image. It can add dimension to your photographs by blurring the background, and it also alters the exposure of your images by making them brighter or darker. In this article, we will cover everything you need to know about aperture, all in very simple language.
Don’t fret if your photo is too bright or dark at your chosen aperture setting. Most of the time, you’ll be able to adjust your shutter speed to compensate or raise your ISO if you’ve hit your sharp shutter speed limit.
Are you by any chance looking at lenses? Because, in a lot of cases, f/ are constant aperture they will open up to f/ at any focal length. Cheaper are variable aperture, and they will open up to f/ at their widest but are limited to f/ at their maximum focal length.
Lateral CA is corrected really well. There is usually a forced correction, but here you can find an uncorrected 655% crop from the extreme corner which still looks really good: